Problems with Israeli Mauser

T

TheDanishMan

Member
I know it’s not a K98 capture, but value the knowledge here and hoping I could get some help with some issues I’ve found with my FN Israeli Mauser.


1. First, the cracks in the stock. Pictures are provided below. Every time I look up advice I get 1000 different links with 1000 different opinions and end up confused and discouraged from attempting repairs myself. Therefore I thought I’d reach out here and see what we can come up with. Looks like both cracks go all the way through. Looks like someone tried to glue it before but it came apart again. So probably need to find a way to get the old glue out before proceeding.

2. The rear barrel band spring is sunken into the stock, leaving the barrel band with freedom of movement. Not good because it’s the only thing holding the handguard in place. Any fixes for this?

3. There is a noticeable gap where the barrel meets the receiver. A friend suggested it could be where the rifles headspace was set. Is this true, or this a problem?

Thanks in advance. Always happy to come to the K98kforum community for solid advice/knowledge.
 

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No offense, but that's pretty crusty. Needs a good cleaning before attempting any repairs. Is the wood spongy or soft in the areas that need attention? Remove the band springs when you clean it.
 
Moconfed is right, cleaning the oil and grime from that wood is your first step. If oil has deeply saturated the problem areas, you'll need to machine away the punky wood before proceeding further. If a lot of wood has to be removed, you may have to install a dutchman. But if you're able to get into fresh wood without removing too much of the oily stuff, Acraglas mixed with sawdust or fiberglass flock can be used to fill the void.

Cracks are always complicated by previous misguided repair attempts, particularly when the base wood wasn't properly prepared and an inferior adhesive was used. But the proper course of action will be a lot more obvious once the wood has been thoroughly cleaned.
 
Honestly I would just get another stock. Once these start to delaminate from oil saturation it will continue with shooting and not worth repairing as replacements stocks are available. Speaking of shooting did you get the headspace checked?
 
k98dave said:
Honestly I would just get another stock. Once these start to delaminate from oil saturation it will continue with shooting and not worth repairing as replacements stocks are available. Speaking of shooting did you get the headspace checked?
Click to expand...

I agree with k98dave. This stock appears to be fit only for the fireplace. Does this rifle even have a nice enough bore and good enough headspace to make it worth putting any money and/or time into?
:facepalm::faint::sorry:
 
swjXE said:
I agree with k98dave. This stock appears to be fit only for the fireplace. Does this rifle even have a nice enough bore and good enough headspace to make it worth putting any money and/or time into?
Click to expand...

Come to think of it, a replacement stock is a far better idea -- why didn't I think of that?

And yes, the condition on this might not even justify putting money into it.

I'm so ashamed...:googlie
 
R.W. Parker said:
Come to think of it, a replacement stock is a far better idea -- why didn't I think of that?

And yes, the condition on this might not even justify putting money into it.

I'm so ashamed...:googlie
Click to expand...

R.W.,
No need to be ashamed. Your advice was spot on. I was only trying to point that if the wood is in fact as punky and oil soaked as it appears to be, with probably at least a gallon of oil in it, that it would be far more valuable cut into small sections to be used for fire starters than any value it'll ever have as a rifle stock. No offence meant to Danish man. I just want to save him a world of time and trouble.
P.S. I forgot that the noticeable gap between the receiver and barrel shoulder sounds pretty frightening. It's possible that if Danish man has any concrete work to do around the house, the best use for this barreled action might be to use it for rebar.
:laugh:
 
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I would agree with getting the oil soak out of the stock before attempting to do anything to it. But considering even Israeli stocks are going 100+. I would keep the stock you have, im not sure what everyones complaints are about the stock. Light cracking in those areas is a non issue. Aslong as the recoil lug is not set back and the rear action screw hole isnt pushed into the wrist. Its not going to give you a problem. If it makes you feel better you can put 3m "weld wood" or brownells "acraglass" in the cracks. But it honestly isnt a big deal. Getting the oil out of the stock is your main problem. Again, all this only counts if the recoil lug and rear action screw stud arent set back. These Israeli rifles are work horses. Usually, ugly as hell. But good.


John.
 
If Danish man does want to put $200 dollars worth of work into a $100 stock. I've heard of guys putting oil soaked stocks in a black painted close fitting cardboard box and setting it on the roof for a week in full sun. Apparently the cardboard can become completely saturated with oil.
 
bnz41john said:
I would agree with getting the oil soak out of the stock before attempting to do anything to it. But considering even Israeli stocks are going 100+. I would keep the stock you have, im not sure what everyones complaints are about the stock. Light cracking in those areas is a non issue. Aslong as the recoil lug is not set back and the rear action screw hole isnt pushed into the wrist. Its not going to give you a problem. If it makes you feel better you can put 3m "weld wood" or brownells "acraglass" in the cracks. But it honestly isnt a big deal. Getting the oil out of the stock is your main problem. Again, all this only counts if the recoil lug and rear action screw stud arent set back. These Israeli rifles are work horses. Usually, ugly as hell. But good.


John.
Click to expand...

Thank you John. I've been doing enough research for days and know enough now to know these "light" repairs can be done relatively cheap, and easily. Money is one thing but in some cases it may be worth it to attempt the repair regardless of the cost, if the (sentimental)value or some other reason is enough for someone to want to at least try. While I appreciate the input, solid advice to the actual questions asked is more helpful. This rifle is a little beat, a little dirty, but really not in terrible shape by any means. If there is something I can do to get it working again then that's great. I appreciate your advice, I see these cracks often, and have shot rifles with small cracks in the action that didn't get any worse, but I want to do a solid repair on this one so I won't have to worry about it ever again.

The "gap" I brought up might be a bigger problem, with the lack of advice I've gotten on it thus far I will just take it to a gunsmith to get his opinion. The barrel is still set evenly with the receiver so I am doubting its an issue. We will see. As far as the barrel band spring, someone on gunboards suggested molding clay, and glue. I think I can find a way to get that fixed too. Stocks are $200 on liberty tree and elsewhere, and look worse on the outside than mine. It'd be a gamble as much as this one was. These problems come with buying old guns, and there is a significant portion of the community that is willing to attempt these repairs. In fact makes a hobby out of doing these repairs as often as they can. While I am not an expert on gunstock repairs, which is why I came here, I am a tradesman, and with my handyman skills I bet(hoping) I can get this done for $50 or less. Thanks again for your advice, here is to attempting to bring back a sentimental and one of the most historical mausers back to working condition again.
 
swjXE said:
If Danish man does want to put $200 dollars worth of work into a $100 stock. I've heard of guys putting oil soaked stocks in a black painted close fitting cardboard box and setting it on the roof for a week in full sun. Apparently the cardboard can become completely saturated with oil.
Click to expand...

You can buy a $26 acraglas kit on brownells. Which is the more expensive version then the two jars ive been using for 4 months on several different rifles. Between $26 and whatever method you use to get the oil out of the stock...it shouldnt cost you $200. Its a shame so many people cant take the time to learn how to do simple things themselves and instead they pass off their "junk" on other people.

John.
 
Its a shame so many people cant take the time to learn how to do simple things themselves and instead they pass off their "junk" on other people.

John.[/QUOTE]

Boy!, you're right about that!:thumbsup:
 
TheDanishMan said:
Thank you John. I've been doing enough research for days and know enough now to know these "light" repairs can be done relatively cheap, and easily. Money is one thing but in some cases it may be worth it to attempt the repair regardless of the cost, if the (sentimental)value or some other reason is enough for someone to want to at least try. While I appreciate the input, solid advice to the actual questions asked is more helpful. This rifle is a little beat, a little dirty, but really not in terrible shape by any means. If there is something I can do to get it working again then that's great. I appreciate your advice, I see these cracks often, and have shot rifles with small cracks in the action that didn't get any worse, but I want to do a solid repair on this one so I won't have to worry about it ever again.

The "gap" I brought up might be a bigger problem, with the lack of advice I've gotten on it thus far I will just take it to a gunsmith to get his opinion. The barrel is still set evenly with the receiver so I am doubting its an issue. We will see. As far as the barrel band spring, someone on gunboards suggested molding clay, and glue. I think I can find a way to get that fixed too. Stocks are $200 on liberty tree and elsewhere, and look worse on the outside than mine. It'd be a gamble as much as this one was. These problems come with buying old guns, and there is a significant portion of the community that is willing to attempt these repairs. In fact makes a hobby out of doing these repairs as often as they can. While I am not an expert on gunstock repairs, which is why I came here, I am a tradesman, and with my handyman skills I bet(hoping) I can get this done for $50 or less. Thanks again for your advice, here is to attempting to bring back a sentimental and one of the most historical mausers back to working condition again.
Click to expand...


I didn't understand your comment about the barrel gap, which is why I didn't comment on it. I see what you are saying now. I personally think its a non issue. If you had headspace gauges you could check to see if the barrel is set properly. But id imagine its fine. The band spring just needs to be removed. On the opposite side of the stock there should be a fairly small hole where the band spring can be knocked out with a punch. A small screwdriver can be used to help pry it out aswell. Once its out you can clean the gunk that is on the band spring off, and the gunk that is in the channel of where the band springs sits. That should fix the problem of it sticking in the down position. If you are a tradesman, I imagine you can get that stock where it needs to be without much fuss. The only further suggestion I have for you on that is having patience. I wish you luck on your project. I think you have a good shooter.

John.
 
Some thoughts until an expert can chime in. I see the IDF star stamped into the top of the receiver ring... is this not an indication of the rifle being a FN contract gun? I also see the large 7.62 stamp on the receiver ring indicating that the rifle had been converted to .308 NATO. If there are no indicators of a recent re-barrel then one could presume that this is rifle in its current condition (barrel mated to receiver) is the product of a rework program and that it left the program with the gap and nobody cared. Potentially a difference in the threading of the barrel shank and the receiver ring... or the armorer stopped indexing when the barrel was seated enough to pass his process inspection - meaning its in there good and tight and trying to force the gap closed by further threading in could lead to undue stresses in the receiver... stuff like that. If the bore and headspace are good (I have one such rifle that looks great but has a bulge in the bore just behind the front sight) then stock repairs might be possible. Replacement just substitutes one old stock for another and may not guarantee better longevity - just different wood to work with. As I recall there are still new Norwegian .308 barrels to be found so if you really wanted to throw funds at the project you could have a new stock and barrel mounted. If it is a .308 gun then there should be a spacer block welded on the front wall of the mag well and the follower would be shorter than an 8mm. Good luck with your project!
 
swjXE said:
I've heard of guys putting oil soaked stocks in a black painted close fitting cardboard box and setting it on the roof for a week in full sun. Apparently the cardboard can become completely saturated with oil.
Click to expand...

I've never heard about the cardboard soaking up the oil, that's a new twist. I've used the black-box-on-roof trick however, but each day I'd remove the stock and hose out the cracks with CRC Brakleen. Then back into the box and repeat.

Richie
 
R.W. Parker said:
I've never heard about the cardboard soaking up the oil, that's a new twist. I've used the black-box-on-roof trick however, but each day I'd remove the stock and hose out the cracks with CRC Brakleen. Then back into the box and repeat.

Richie
Click to expand...

R.W.,
I guess you've just never had an oily enough stock to attain complete saturation. :laugh:
The brakleen is an excellent idea. I guess you could repeat this a few times and blow out the crack with compressed air.
:thumbsup:
 
swjXE said:
I guess you've just never had an oily enough stock to attain complete saturation. :laugh:
Click to expand...

I have, but I didn't know the part about letting the box absorb the oil. Now I've gotta find another oil-black stock before summer!:laugh:


[/QUOTE]The brakleen is an excellent idea. I guess you could repeat this a few times and blow out the crack with compressed air.[/QUOTE]

That's exactly what you do. And if you can flex the crack open a bit before hosing it out and blowing out the grime-bearing solvent, all the better.

Richie
 
Oil and headspace

You have two problems: oil and barrel. Brownells has a whiting compound that you apply to wood to draw out oil. I have used it with great success. It is white and as it draws out oil it turns brown. It will dry out wood. The gap between the receiver and barrel is a example of poor gunsmithing. Check the headspace. Every gunsmith will have a 308 headspace set. If the headspace is correct then you are good to go. What happened is somebody set the headspace by screwing the barrel in and out. That will work but it leaves what you have, a gap. The correct way is to screw the barrel tight, then if needed face it off, then recut the chamber to the correct headspace. Mauser barrels are the easiest to fit. Somebody just did not take the time to do it right. They used what is known as a long fitted barrel, and probably did not have a chamber reamer nor a lathe. The barrel face may be hand filed If the barrel is faced off by hand filing I would pull the barrel screw in tight, shoulder my need to be recut to set it back, face off, recut the chamber. This barrel will be easy to remove. An easy fix would be use a shim to fill the gap. If the headspace is now correct, remove the barrel, fit a thin washer to just fill the gap, make sure not to change the headspace, and go with that. In any event it should be checked by a gunsmith and corrected. You are working with a high pressure cartridge and you do not want to blow a case.
 
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