Radom/VIS/P-35(p) evolution

mike radford

Senior Member
The evolution of the Radom/VIS/P-35(p) can be seen in the following photos. From the beauty and precision of the early Polish made Eagles to the last of the crude Nazi supervised P-35(p) examples in the second K block, here are a few examples along the way.
 

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The stock slot was phased out in first E block. Finish remained pretty nice until about first H block. The finger relief cuts were phased out in first K block. Some wood grips with the VIS/FB pattern pressed into the wood appeared at times but not in a consistent pattern. The takedown lever was phased out in Z block. A slot in the hammer allowed the hammer drop to lock the slide for takedown. About the same time, the grip screw bushings were eliminated and the grips were directly screwed in the frame.
 

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Phosphate finish began to be phased in by second A block but very few examples have turned up. Quite a few phosphate guns came up in second B block. Some small parts remained blue on the phosphate guns. Blue finish continued intermittently till the last block, second K block although most all guns except second B and second K block were blue. Some slide stops were now serrated instead of checkered. Dark brown and grooved wood grips are seen on the phosphate guns and most guns in the second A through G block had light brown grips.
 

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Thanks Rob. The Polish Eagle guns, numbering less than 50,000, have always been expensive and are even more so these days. The pre-alphabet guns that follow are even harder to find and quite pricey. I need to find one of those.
 
Nice collection Mike. I used to have a couple of beautiful k blocks, one blue and one phosphate with wood grips. I have an h block that I'm gonna try to pick up in the near future that should make a very interesting conversation piece.
 
Nice collection Mike. I used to have a couple of beautiful k blocks, one blue and one phosphate with wood grips. I have an h block that I'm gonna try to pick up in the near future that should make a very interesting conversation piece.

Thanks.

I like these old things. This is just a portion of the collection and I used old photos on file. I bought my first one in about 1981. It was a Chrome plated, all matching 1939 Eagle. I bought it as a shooter, and it does shoot well.
 
Halp with finding a mag for my Radom

Thanks.

I like these old things. This is just a portion of the collection and I used old photos on file. I bought my first one in about 1981. It was a Chrome plated, all matching 1939 Eagle. I bought it as a shooter, and it does shoot well.

Hi there,
Great collection of Radoms!!!
They do shoot very well!
I have a fairly early one that was liberated of a Nazi paratrooper by a vet and for some reason the spare mag is missing the bottom and therefore the innards. Would you have a spare that was respectable to sell?
Best regards, Chris
 
So what do these different variations go for, aproximately? My interest is peaked.

I would get the York book. It is helpful.

Check the Blue Book for its opinion, which was partially my opinion and a couple other collectors I know. It is pretty close on these.

A 98% 38 or 39 Eagle, the more common ones, are gonna be close to $5K. The 36 and 37 will be higher.

An early German gun with a stock slot, except the pre-alphabet guns, in lets say 90% condition can be found in the $1K range if you get lucky. Add more for a Navy gun, which often lack a lanyard and will often have a blue barrel. Many KM marked guns are fake so be careful. Many of the guns between the first F block through Z block in 90% can be found in about the $600-1000 range. Most common guns, non-phosphate, in the second A-G blocks can be found in the $500-900 range. The Phosphate guns in 90% range will be around $2K and a bnz marked slide gun is gonna hurt you at about $5K. There are a few Eastern block guns out there with import marks so watch for those but most are bring backs.

Thanks cstan.
 
I like Radom pistols too, but have sold off all of them for some dumb reason- probably to buy 98k's. I still have a holster and 2-3 e/623 phosphate mags so when I find some more late K blocks I'll be set. :)
 
I like Radom pistols too, but have sold off all of them for some dumb reason- probably to buy 98k's. I still have a holster and 2-3 e/623 phosphate mags so when I find some more late K blocks I'll be set. :)

NO YOU DITNT!!!!!???? Who has them? You just crushed my 6 month dream plan of purchases. And you know which two I mean.
 
If you are a good shopper, and are patient, work the gunshows and local gunshops, you can find a legit example for approx $700 to $750. Make sure you know the difference and don't buy it if the numbers don't match.
 
If you are a good shopper, and are patient, work the gunshows and local gunshops, you can find a legit example for approx $700 to $750. Make sure you know the difference and don't buy it if the numbers don't match.

….and the p35's tear down just like a 1911, so it's easy to make sure they're matching.
 
If you are a good shopper, and are patient, work the gunshows and local gunshops, you can find a legit example for approx $700 to $750. Make sure you know the difference and don't buy it if the numbers don't match.

A local vet brung a matching P35 with holster, belt, SS buckle and capture paper back, I got outbid it went for $1,350... He also brung back a HJ flag 3 x 16, it went for $1,650 !!!, out bid on that as well.
 
WW II vet bring-backs, regardless of what they might be, are getting pricey . The more complete & better condition, of course, the higher the $$. Sadly, many WW II vets are passing away and many families don't want { for whatever the reason might be ? } to keep these bring backs, and are looking to just take the money and close the book. My late father only brought back one gun, a complete pre war Walther PP rig in very good condition { with US Army release papers }, and I will do my best to make sure that it stays in the family permanently . They don't make 'em anymore, folks, so get 'em while you can !!
WW II Walther PP rig.jpg
 
….and the p35's tear down just like a 1911, so it's easy to make sure they're matching.

That's partially true; not only are the slide, frame and barrel numbered, but also the extractor, decocking lever, firing pin stop, mainspring housing, grip safety and hammer. The only way to confirm those is a total tear-down. That's been the case with my last two guns, both with take-down levers. My current one is a first K block and all those parts are numbered.
 
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