Rust Removal / Cleaning Old Rifles

W

williammichaelsexton

Active member
I would like to get some input from you guys on your opinions of removing rust and to what extent you guys consider cleaning up an older firearm beneficial and at what point it becomes damaging to its history and value. As posted before, my 1916 Amberg Gewehr as a good bit of surface wear and dark spots, especially on the white receiver and bolt. The firearm was very rusted when I received it (also posted elsewhere) and the method I used to clean it was liberal amounts of CLP and a copper brush. While I ‘scrubbed’ the in-the-white parts somewhat aggressively, I didn’t apply any brushes to the parts that were blued, in fear of removing the bluing. The blued parts I only wiped down with a cotton towel and CLP. While there is no serious pitting on the firearm, its exterior has seen better days, the bluing is lacking, and under the stock line there is serious rust on the receiver and trigger assembly that I would like to further remove.

I have been recently introduced to an electrolysis tank method for cleaning up the surfaces of firearms and rust and have been considering it. It is my understanding that this method will remove all rust (and other things such as dried cosmoline) without damaging the metal or remove the bluing. While I don’t have any pics to share of the more rusted parts under the stock, let’s just say that they are quite orange from oxidation.

What would you suggest regarding how I should move forward? I realise that the big rust needs to be removed, but should every single piece that has ‘character’ be cleaned up, such as barrel bands, sights, etc.? I would like this firearm to show its age and character and not be in ‘new’ condition, but at the same time it seems as if I should clean it up the best I can without damaging what’s original underneath.
Would you rather have a firearm that’s 100 years old and shows the ‘been there done that’ dirty look or one that has been cleaned well, but not to the point of damaging, but then only shows maybe 30-50% of original bluing in some places?
 
I thought you did a fine job on the 1915 Erfurt, not too obtrusive or aggressive. In my view less done the better, they are old guns and not supposed to look new again.

When I first started collecting Gewehr 98s I was way too aggressive in my cleaning methods. Fortunately I didn't ruin anything, and most of my first Gewehrs were restorations that did need work. These days all I do when I get a new Gew is wipe the metal down with Ballistol. After repeating this I look for lingering rust spots. Rusted spots I hit with bronze wool, which doesn't harm bluing. This gets the worst of it, and I repeat the process if the gun needs it. Leaving Ballistol sit on rusted metal for a day or so also works well. For dirt and gunk I use Ballistol and toothpicks or a plastic brush. In the worst cases, like my 1917 Spandau, I use a brass brush and fine steel wool on white metal, but in very small doses. Ballistol is my best recommendation, it's worked wonders for me.
 
seems this gets posted once a month

to keep it original the least you do the better. making it pretty does not increase its value or collectability

for cosmoline good coat of WD-40 and let it sit , use brass cleaning brush in the chamber and in barrel , for the exterior same procedure use a old tooth brush don't be in a hurry

for rust use your favorite oil soak the area to be cleaned DO NOT USE STEEL WOOL, WIRE BRUSH, SANDPAPER!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

use brass or bronze wool found here: http://item.brownells.com/categories/brownells-metal-prep-coloring/bronze-wool-1-bronze-wool.htm

take your time remove the metal from the stock deep pits soak and use a toothbrush. do not reblue with cheap cold blue or good stuff

it is what it is
 
PrayingMantis said:
I thought you did a fine job on the 1915 Erfurt, not too obtrusive or aggressive. In my view less done the better, they are old guns and not supposed to look new again.

When I first started collecting Gewehr 98s I was way too aggressive in my cleaning methods. Fortunately I didn't ruin anything, and most of my first Gewehrs were restorations that did need work. These days all I do when I get a new Gew is wipe the metal down with Ballistol. After repeating this I look for lingering rust spots. Rusted spots I hit with bronze wool, which doesn't harm bluing. This gets the worst of it, and I repeat the process if the gun needs it. Leaving Ballistol sit on rusted metal for a day or so also works well. For dirt and gunk I use Ballistol and toothpicks or a plastic brush. In the worst cases, like my 1917 Spandau, I use a brass brush and fine steel wool on white metal, but in very small doses. Ballistol is my best recommendation, it's worked wonders for me.
Click to expand...

This. Well said.

Also, go check our Pic Reference thread. Some links of interest:
http://www.k98kforum.com/showthread.php?3881-Tools-I-find-Useful-for-the-Kar98k

http://www.k98kforum.com/showthread.php?1434-Rifle-cleaning-from-German-manual
 
I may be alone here, not sure.... But when I see a worn 98 rifle that is nearly 100 years old, I get really puzzled as to why the bolt and receiver are cleaned up into the white. Scrubbing something until it's totally clean, to me, is the equivalent of rebluing the worn metal.

Now if it has 95% bluing and is cleaned up, I'm not so bothered. The gun condition makes sense. But a worn gun? Not my thing.
 
Bare steel in the white should not be cleaned to a shine. I never use steel wool of any kind on a firearm though I know technically the soft kind, 000 and 0000 should not be a problem. Bronze wool only.
 
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