Humbarger
Senior Member
BS I've been doing this for 50+ years and there are NO ILL EFFECTS. Four O steel with the gun dripping in oil when you use it does not hurt a damn thing!
Should I clean or leave as found 1940 K98k
- Thread starter Blk
- Start date
luftpirate
Well-known member
Stock looks good to me I wouldnt touch it.
Muncher 1953
Senior Member
in bronze wool, I’ve only found 0 thru 000, never 0000, or 00000. It may be made, but I’d think it would fall apart under use, as 000 sometimes does when scrubbing something hard. I wear 7 mil gloves when scrubbing with either steel or bronze wools to keep some of the fines out of my skin. My local Ace hardware carries bronze wool in 0-000, but the clerk wasn’t too sure about it. I haven’t seen brass wool at any brick & mortar store, I think too soft for most applications. Small brass bristle brushes are plentifully available from china at the cheap tool store, as are the same style in stainless.
heavy_mech
RKI- Reasonably Knowledgable Individual
I'll definitely stop short of calling bullsh*t, however I'd really like to see some before and afters or even more ideally a short video showing it. I've used all grades of abrasives, steel wool and Scotchbrites in Green (mostly) but also grey and red. I'm fairly familiar with how they abrade surfaces and I would really need to SEE this not ruining the finish to believe it.
Thinking about it more, IF it's truly slathered in oil AND you can go REALLY lightly I suppose it would be possible to knock down the light surface rust without ruining the finish/ Not a gamble I'd wish to take on a collectible rifle, but I do admit it's probably possible to do this.
heavy_mech
RKI- Reasonably Knowledgable Individual
One more thing to consider and I'd love to hear some discussion. There's a huge difference between 'blued' finishes. Some are very deep and very strong and others are nearly opaque. Surely they would neither rust or respond to its removal the same way.
I wouldn’t recommend using steel wool for a variety of reasons.. removing finish being one.. however another is also when using steel wool you are leaving microscopic steel particles behind… which also will then rust.. which just compounds the problem.
Use brass or bronze wool..
Use brass or bronze wool..
I never use fine steel wool on a firearm. Yes, I know its softer than steel, etc. On bronze wool it comes in fine, medium, and course, generally. That's what I've got. I kind of like the course because it doesn't hold bits of rust. Be aware that if the wool picks up flecks of the rust removed it becomes a steel abrasive. Ballistol wipe, bronze wool / bronze brush, wipe, repeat. If it starts to shine you've done too much. I remove active rust. I do not remove rust staining or browning. It's a firearm, a piece of equipment that was maintained. I like patina, I don't like active rust. Same with the bore. the stock if dirty and grimy needs a light wipe or nothing at all. The trick to conservation is to do nothing that cannot be undone. I don't remove old dried grease. I don't remove rust browning. I don't clean metal until it shines unless it's the bore. Nice honest rifle. If you are to err, err on the side of doing nothing because in a climate, uv, humidity, and insect controlled environment it will look like that long after we're all 10-7.
Humbarger
Senior Member
I avoid scotch Brite like the plague.
heavy_mech
RKI- Reasonably Knowledgable Individual
It definitely has it's uses. It will 'scuff' even modern catalyzed automotive finishes. Guys in basic training using Scotchbrite green pads wore completely through the finish on M16A1 rifles.
grimlin13
Senior Member
I am a bayonet collector mainly. The blue varies between bayonets. It can vary between the blade, pommel, flash guard, cross guard and scabbard on a matching set. Be it heavy, light or somewhere in between. Sometimes the blue is replaced in spots or more with patina. There is no way in hell I would ever use steel wool in any grade on any of my bayonets, even if that bayonet was swimming in a tub of oil.
I have a bayonet that the scabbard is mostly covered with patina. It looks like the slightly brown blue that is on a lot of bayonets. I was using a cloth and oil to wipe it down when I first got the set. There was a little surface rust in one area on the scabbard, so I rubbed a little harder in that one spot. Boy was I surprised when the "blue" suddenly thinned out and shiny metal began to show through. I put on my eye glasses and upon a closer inspection there was a lot of patina present on that scabbard and I can only imagine what would of happened if I had used steel wool. And since then, I never attempt to clean a new bayonet without putting my glasses on first.
I have a bayonet that the scabbard is mostly covered with patina. It looks like the slightly brown blue that is on a lot of bayonets. I was using a cloth and oil to wipe it down when I first got the set. There was a little surface rust in one area on the scabbard, so I rubbed a little harder in that one spot. Boy was I surprised when the "blue" suddenly thinned out and shiny metal began to show through. I put on my eye glasses and upon a closer inspection there was a lot of patina present on that scabbard and I can only imagine what would of happened if I had used steel wool. And since then, I never attempt to clean a new bayonet without putting my glasses on first.
Schmud0811
Well-known member
I’d send it to Novak or at least watch his preservation and restoration videos. I haven’t found anyone better to watch and explain it in layman terms . Cover the manufactures procedures, depo procedures etc.
it’s worth a look before you touch it
it’s worth a look before you touch it
BOS1938
Active member
My 2 cents is as follows:
Stock - Leave it alone. It looks good, and the proof marks are pretty clear all things considered.
Rifle - Ballistol on gun cleaning wipes. Rinse and repeat. If needed, bronze wool and Ballistol will take away more stubborn surface rust.
When taking it apart, go nice, slow, and gentle. Do not force anything. When unscrewing the trigger guard, be gentle as the screws can be soft and easy to warp/strip. Lots of great disassembly/assembly videos on YouTube to guide you.
Congrats and enjoy it!
Stock - Leave it alone. It looks good, and the proof marks are pretty clear all things considered.
Rifle - Ballistol on gun cleaning wipes. Rinse and repeat. If needed, bronze wool and Ballistol will take away more stubborn surface rust.
When taking it apart, go nice, slow, and gentle. Do not force anything. When unscrewing the trigger guard, be gentle as the screws can be soft and easy to warp/strip. Lots of great disassembly/assembly videos on YouTube to guide you.
Congrats and enjoy it!
