Ammo
- Thread starter moe1
- Start date
Muncher 1953
Senior Member
keep in mind that they are 5 shot bolt actions, if you run 20 rounds through each on a range day, you’ll be plenty sore. Corrosive is the best buy pricewise, begin the cleaning routine w/warm water, then regular methods. I favor ppu fmj, if only because my local range has 100yards as the max at rifle range, so the underpowered loads don’t concern me, & then no fussing around with special cleaning methods. try ‘ammoseek’ or similar, then choose the deal that suits your budget.
“Buy it cheap & stack it deep”
IIRC, forum member T1D.Operator was offering some 8mm recently.
“Buy it cheap & stack it deep”
IIRC, forum member T1D.Operator was offering some 8mm recently.
If you intend on shooting much 8MM Mauer you might consider reloading.
A simple press and a set of dies and a good reloading manual will save you a ton of money if, you intend on shooting much.
If you will hardly ever shoot them then a couple boxes even at today's prices will be fine
A simple press and a set of dies and a good reloading manual will save you a ton of money if, you intend on shooting much.
If you will hardly ever shoot them then a couple boxes even at today's prices will be fine
Mauserguy85
Well-known member
When I first started k98k collection many moons ago. I started stockpiling ammo (which was dirt cheap at the time). Then I actually started shooting regularly and realized that the k98k is quite unpleasant to shoot more than 50 rounds in one sitting. Beats up your shoulder pretty good. I know I’m not alone in this realization, 
.
Having said that, S&B will be the best choice of you’re looking for the closest to WW2 era loading. PPU is great stuff but it’s under loaded, the brass isn’t as good and it’s not cheaper enough compared to S&B in my opinion.
Corrosive nowadays is just not worth it. Honestly. Most of the offerings are 60-80+ years old. Powder degradation, dud primers, brittle cases and the added stress and time consumption of the cleaning procedure post shooting. Why bother? When 8mm surplus was running a few cents per round, it made sense. Now not so much.
.Having said that, S&B will be the best choice of you’re looking for the closest to WW2 era loading. PPU is great stuff but it’s under loaded, the brass isn’t as good and it’s not cheaper enough compared to S&B in my opinion.
Corrosive nowadays is just not worth it. Honestly. Most of the offerings are 60-80+ years old. Powder degradation, dud primers, brittle cases and the added stress and time consumption of the cleaning procedure post shooting. Why bother? When 8mm surplus was running a few cents per round, it made sense. Now not so much.
Muncher 1953
Senior Member
I’ve bought ppu 8mm from them a number of times without any complaints, but my state isn’t on the restrictions list. they aren’t always the cheapest, but shipping rates & turnaround are average & better than average, IME. I used to buy from Target Sports in CT ( odd state for an ammo company) but they’ve gone the “membership marketing” route, & I think that’s just money grabbing bs. I don’t buy nearly enough in a year to justify $100 up front, just to get the “savings”, even if that includes ‘free shipping’.
Muncher 1953
Senior Member
S&B is loaded closer to original specs, but given the shoulder factor, I’ve had good luck w/ppu. granted not match grade, but good enough for 100-200yards. I’ve had no problems at all w/the brass, anneal after 4-5x, but have enough so I haven’t annealed any more than twice, yet. Steel cased corrosive seems to have climbed near/above $1/rd shipped, not reloadable in a practical sense, so for me, not worth it. I’ll shoot off what WW2 German stuff I have that isn’t collectible, but won’t pursue any other corrosive, ‘cept maybe for projectiles.When I first started k98k collection many moons ago. I started stockpiling ammo (which was dirt cheap at the time). Then I actually started shooting regularly and realized that the k98k is quite unpleasant to shoot more than 50 rounds in one sitting. Beats up your shoulder pretty good. I know I’m not alone in this realization,
Having said that, S&B will be the best choice of you’re looking for the closest to WW2 era loading. PPU is great stuff but it’s under loaded, the brass isn’t as good and it’s not cheaper enough compared to S&B in my opinion.
Corrosive nowadays is just not worth it. Honestly. Most of the offerings are 60-80+ years old. Powder degradation, dud primers, brittle cases and the added stress and time consumption of the cleaning procedure post shooting. Why bother? When 8mm surplus was running a few cents per round, it made sense. Now not so much.
I plan on buying some lots of turk 8mm and Greek heavy ball and just pull the bullets since no one makes a 154 grain FMJ. PPU makes 198 grain bullets but I figured I'd get the Greek stuff so I can put the cases in the brass scrap bucket. Make something very slightly back.
Muncher 1953
Senior Member
Probably hotcore brand 8mm, ever since I heard of stiff locked up bolts and signs of excessive pressure I've stayed away from that ammo. Coulda just been just some early teething problems from that Romanian plant because I seen a YouTube vid of a guy using it in a Gewehr 188/05 and it ran perfectly fine.
I worked my way down to a very soft 8MM load back when I bought TCs and reGermanized them (Late 2000's when RCs were consider Scheisegewehren)
Not close to book recommended 30gr IMR4895 196gr Zastava pulled from Yugo 50's ammo.
Many powders are more dangerous below the starting load but some can handle extra oxygen in the case like IMR4895 (Never tried H-4895)
How soft was it? Glad you asked. I set the rear site at 500 yards to shoot 100 yards not quite a mortar more like a howitzer.
Felt about like a 22Magnum rimfire round
Yugo 50's powder is not corrosive just the primer so if you pull the bullets you can reuse the powder But, as mentioned 15+ years later with 1960's powder may not be as good an idea as it was pre 2010
Not close to book recommended 30gr IMR4895 196gr Zastava pulled from Yugo 50's ammo.
Many powders are more dangerous below the starting load but some can handle extra oxygen in the case like IMR4895 (Never tried H-4895)
How soft was it? Glad you asked. I set the rear site at 500 yards to shoot 100 yards not quite a mortar more like a howitzer.
Felt about like a 22Magnum rimfire round
Yugo 50's powder is not corrosive just the primer so if you pull the bullets you can reuse the powder But, as mentioned 15+ years later with 1960's powder may not be as good an idea as it was pre 2010
Muncher 1953
Senior Member
Hmm alrighty, ik there is some commercial 180 grain and 170 grain hunting bullets but I've never seen FMJ.
Muncher 1953
Senior Member
Honkey Tonk Devil
Well-known member
Just going to point this out about ppu, since it's being talked about being a bit anemic. The ppu ammo that's labed 8mm MAUSER is loaded lighter just above 2000 feet per second.
The ppu ammo labeled 8x57 IS. Is loaded to around 2400 feet per second. Seems to be harder to come by but it does show up on online.
The ppu ammo labeled 8x57 IS. Is loaded to around 2400 feet per second. Seems to be harder to come by but it does show up on online.
Muncher 1953
Senior Member
good info.
I see some ppu 8mm packed in bluish boxes titled ‘Rifle Line’, does that correspond to one of those offerings mentioned above? I bought a case a minute ago from sgammo, but I rebox it so I can fit more in each ammo can. I save just the original box flap with the lot # in case of a recall, & so lose the other info. I use plain white 20 rd boxes, no separators repackbox.com
I see some ppu 8mm packed in bluish boxes titled ‘Rifle Line’, does that correspond to one of those offerings mentioned above? I bought a case a minute ago from sgammo, but I rebox it so I can fit more in each ammo can. I save just the original box flap with the lot # in case of a recall, & so lose the other info. I use plain white 20 rd boxes, no separators repackbox.com
Honkey Tonk Devil
Well-known member
Dug these out quick. Some pics, both blue are rifle line didn't realize I had a glare in the box. The match and "IS" are same dimension. While the 8mm is bigger to allow for blue plastic shell holder.
Ppu unlike many others do not put ballistic info on boxes have to visit their website. When I got the "IS" boxes I don't think there were even identified as such. Pretty sure they showed a stock photo 8mm although I could be wrong. I didn't know there was a difference till I ran across some older reddit threads. If you visit ppu non North American site they show this ammo along with the ballistics.
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Muncher 1953
Senior Member
I saw & went to the ppu usa site, which shows 8x57 IRS but not IS, & they show PP8S (196gn SP), PP8F (198gn FMJBT) and PPM8 (198gn FMJBT) all as 2181 fps mv, but Midway usa shows the same 3 as 2181, 2425 & 2180 respectively. I hate when places post garbage info! mindless cut & paste, what READ what I’m cut & pasting? DUH! I think I noticed this before, but giggle was hiding the ppu home site from me tonite.