Floor Plate Spring Catch - Retaining Pin?

[BergerBoy]

Anyone have any details, specs, etc on the 98K's Floor Plate Catch Pin?
The push-button catch that holds the floor plate engaged, is spring loaded, and is retained in its keeper hole by a pin of some kind.
Mine is a little mangled, and doesn't go all the way through to the opposite side hole.
This is causing the catch button to slip forward and sometimes the floor plate pops open when loading a round.
The pin in my CE43 appears to be a hollow aluminum pin that is a little flared on the one end.
Is this a typical replacement part from a hardware store?
Or are there sources for these from the "authentics" sites?

 

[ClintJ]

Try a piece of finishing nail.

 

[Rustybore]

Try Springfield Sporters.
http://www.ssporters.com/parts/98 Mauser.htm
FLOOR PLATE CATCH PIN $1.00
About halfway down the page.

Rb.

 

[BergerBoy]

OK - I was able to make-do with a segment of a galvanized roofing nail.
See photos.
It extends out through both sides of the holes within the spring/catch keeper, but it doesn't interfere with the stock, and its unseen with the TG assembly is installed.
The catch button functions well now, to hold the floor plate in place (previously, the catch would wobble forward on the mis-positioned original catch pin, alowing the FP to unlatch at the rear ears), but the button now appears deeper in the hole than previous, and I'm wondering if that's normal.
The button definitely is harder to push due to the more-compressed spring now, but it holds the FP good, and I want to make sure I've got it positioned right now.

Also - still curious about the Floor Plate. Its stamped, as is the TG which does match this CE43. But the FP is not serial numbered - only has a "byf" and a 135 WaA.
What's the history on the byf components, and were they typically supplied to Sauer & Sohn for the CE line of rifles?
Seems I read that somewhere.
This is the one component on this rifle (Aside from the bolt m/m), whose origin is in question - everything else matches.

 

[Turbo Archie]

CE43 FP would be numbered and most likely milled..


..

 

[BergerBoy]

CE43 FP would be numbered and most likely milled..


..

Thanks Archie.

So, you're saying that even on this stamped trigger guard that is correctly matching this rifle, there ought to be a milled & numbered floor plate?
I would think the assembly would be either both stamped or both milled - at least as-shipped from the factory.

 

[ClintJ]

Thanks Archie.

So, you're saying that even on this stamped trigger guard that is correctly matching this rifle, there ought to be a milled & numbered floor plate?
I would think the assembly would be either both stamped or both milled - at least as-shipped from the factory.

If you have to have an incorrect trigger guard that is the one to have!

 

[BergerBoy]

If you have to have an incorrect trigger guard that is the one to have!

Thanks Clint
Not sure I understand your statement.
Are you saying that its better to have an incorrect trigger guard assembly, than an incorrect floor plate?
It seems the TG is more a main component of the rifle assembly.
And the FP would be considered more of a peripheral component, prone to loss or damage, and replacement in the field (similar to cleaning rods, etc).

My TG matches my rifle, and is stamped.
However, the FP is not numbered, but has a "byf" code - but is also stamped.
Archie is saying this should have a milled FP - but that would seem to be a mis-match to the correct stamped FP.

Also - the question still is open about the catch button repair I did, and whether the new button depth is proper for engagement of the FP.

Also/Also - Would there be any concerns about metal incompatibility with the TG steel, by introducing the galvanized nail shaft as a catch pin? (corrosion, etc)

 

[ClintJ]

Thanks Clint
Not sure I understand your statement.
Are you saying that its better to have an incorrect trigger guard assembly, than an incorrect floor plate?
It seems the TG is more a main component of the rifle assembly.
And the FP would be considered more of a peripheral component, prone to loss or damage, and replacement in the field (similar to cleaning rods, etc).

My TG matches my rifle, and is stamped.
However, the FP is not numbered, but has a "byf" code - but is also stamped.
Archie is saying this should have a milled FP - but that would seem to be a mis-match to the correct stamped FP.

Also - the question still is open about the catch button repair I did, and whether the new button depth is proper for engagement of the FP.

Also/Also - Would there be any concerns about metal incompatibility with the TG steel, by introducing the galvanized nail shaft as a catch pin? (corrosion, etc)

Sorry. I thought the triggerguard was a unnumbered 135 or 214 marked. I dont see why an armorer couldnt have put that floorplate on there. Everybody likes to pretend with bolts and safeties and such. And for the nail causing rust it wont.

 

[Turbo Archie]

Bugerboy,

When in doubt, refer to the picture index...

TG switched to stamped but the floor plate is typically milled into '44..

..

 

[BergerBoy]

Thanks Archie

So what gives on the FP that's stamped on my rifle, and without a serial number at all - but with a "byf" manuf. code, and a 135 WaA???
None of your milled FPs showed either of those, but all were numbered.

Just trying to decypher the mystery of the history.
And looking for some level of hope that this FP was ever intended to be on this rifle.

Someone had said earlier that the CE's had some FPs sub-contracted out to the BYF plant in 43, no?


Also - it looks from your photos, that I successfully fixed my catch button, as all yours appear to be equally recessed in the hole of the FP when in the locked position.

 

[S/42]

We really all do have to chip in and get you some shop classes... from mangled rear sight pins to the nail.

I mean, you really COULD file the ends of the nail and at least make it LOOK like a pin and flush to the spring box sides... I know, files cost $3 these days, I know

 

[ClintJ]

Bugerboy,

When in doubt, refer to the picture index...

TG switched to stamped but the floor plate is typically milled into '44..

I saw what ya did there.

 

[BergerBoy]

Helpful Forum?

We really all do have to chip in and get you some shop classes... from mangled rear sight pins to the nail.

I mean, you really COULD file the ends of the nail and at least make it LOOK like a pin and flush to the spring box sides... I know, files cost $3 these days, I know

Hey Vulch - I'm doing what I can, with what I know.
Maybe making some mistakes along the way, but learning as I go.
Also learning that some on this board are more into 8th grade sniping, than they are into helping semi-noobs like myself.

Two weeks ago, I asked for some more advice and guidance from you "experts" on my catch button pin problem, and got none except from from one who recommended I use a finishing nail (thanks Clint). This rework ended up pretty decent, even if the first trial was a bit rough.

Earlier, when I mucked up my sight pins, I had made numerous requests on this board, and waited several weeks for some decent guidance before trying it on my own, based only on the poor instructions I got with the lousy after-market scope mount base I had ordered.
After I shared my resulting "carnage", of course then, out came the critics - Thanks Guys!
Fortunately, I was able to find a replacement sight base that was un-numbered, but I still feel bad about mutilating that small piece of history.

I think some of you need to re-think why you're here, as part of this forum:
- To promote the hobby of 98k collecting and encouraging new-comers by providing valued information and guidance?
- Or to look for opportunities to ridicule those who are trying to break in to the same hobby, hopefully trying to avoid some of the same mistakes you probabaly had made?

Fortunately, my new-found passion for WWII weapons is far deeper than any childish ribbing could dissuade.
Sadly, it only tends to turn people off to forums such as this.

 

[S/42]

It was good-natured ribbing. I am sorry you took it in a manner not intended. I apologise.

 

[Turbo Archie]

First of all, I've never claimed to be an expert so I assume your comments aren't directed towards me.

Second, most people don't want to stick their neck out and give advice due to it being judged as you noted.
Stick around, its a great place to learn about K98's but if the subject is outside collecting, it won't be a hot topic (IE adding a scope, ect.)




Oh, your floorplate is not original, but at least its un-numbered.


..

 

[BergerBoy]

NO Worries!

Hey Guys.
No harm - No foul.
I've got pretty thick skin, I mainly just wanted to send a reminder not to make new-comers feel unwelcomed.
As someone reminded me some months ago: "We've all been 'That Guy' in the past" (making mistakes that garner the scourn of their peers).

The more enthusiasts involved, the better for all of us.
Interest levels and prices move up and down together.

I'll be sticking around - would take more than a little hazing to turn me away (I was a frat-boy long ago).

 

[ClintJ]

Well I dont mind helping someone but I am far from an expert. I am just a serial parts mongerer. I create K98k's because I wouldnt have any fun with an all matched original. All you can do is put them in a glass case and DO NOT TOUCH!! I have too much fun building them and seeing how they shoot. I am not a humper and I make sure my rifles do not end up in the hands of a humper(as much as I can). I'm sorry I didnt catch your sight removal question in time. When I get tired of playing with mauser parts I will sell them all and put the money towards an all matching but until then I will have fun "bubba"ing. And people can say what they want about my creations but I cant make it through 3 rows of the Tulsa show without being accosted 19 times about "those mausers you're carrying". I guess I really should get a table but hell, 80 bucks is a K98k stock.....

 

[BergerBoy]

Thanks Clint
Agree 100%
I wouldn't be in any collecting/restoring hobby if it involved keeping your work "behind glass" (well maybe one - but the rest would be enjoyed).
If it were classic cars, I'd be sure to be driving them.
But in this case, its classic WW2 small arms - and I'm also in it for the fun of the shoot.

Seeing a 70-80 year old weapon brought back to life as a safe and accurate shooter, holds a lot of reward.
From both a mechanical and historic perspective.
Then adding the thrill of them being part of actual WW2 combat, and all its history............
Just makes this a real good fit for me.

I'm just getting started (my first was a 1938 Mosin - all matching ).
Probably going to look at bringing home an M1 Garand from the CMP store next.
I'd like to first round-out my collection with one rifle from each of the warring countries during WW2.
Then maybe come back around and dive deeper into 98K's, since they seem to have the most collector resources, with impeccable records / discipline of their original manufacturers.
Seems that the Mosins are still a dime-a-dozen, but still fun to shoot.
And the Garands that are all-matching from the War are very hard to come by, and expensive as a result.

 

[S/42]

The Springfield bug bit me AGAIN - it's stayed away from me for at least 10 years, now it's BACK!

I am totally in shock about how CHEAP they are suddenly! Totally flabbergasted actually! And the parts for them are suddenly EVERYWHERE!