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G43 hammer not resetting

Kaiser715

Kaiser715

Well-known member
Recently I acquired my first G43, an ac44 A block. Sadly it had been bubba’d and among the things destroyed was the sear assembly, thanks to a kind forum member here I sourced a new one and went to put it in. This rifle came to me with the trigger group taken out of the gun I did my best to assemble it from what limited material there is. After dropping the new sear assembly in I went to function test it pull trigger hammer drops with trigger held down and bolt cycled hammer follows the bolt home. Repeating the same test but taking your finger off the trigger after dry firing and then cycling the bolt the hammer remains cocked as it should I don’t see any damage to the new sear assembly which leads me to believe I might have installed a spring wrong could anyone here pitch in Please!741910FC-B4A3-4D76-B8AD-A663423D4B3C.jpeg
 

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Grossekatz said:
What happens when you reset the trigger by hand? Without the bolt and carrier in the gun?
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It will reset by hand when you press the hammer down manually I stumbled across a forum post saying either the bottom of the bolt may be worn where it rides over the hammer to push it down to reset it I have a suspicion that may be the problem I measured it to approximately 60 thousands in this spot if you or anyone else would be kind enough to measure theirs and tell me if this is my issue.
 

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My bolt measured at 0.1055. But it's pretty obvious by the pic that you have a problem there. Even the profile looks wrong. It's either very worn or someone removed some material. However It should be easy enough to weld and machine back to spec if you can't find another bolt body.

9TUAAmm.jpeg
 
Is the bolt matching to the gun? If you can reset it by hand but it doesn't reset by mechanical method via the bolt, you either have a worn bolt (if original to the gun) or you have a bolt that just doesnt play well with your hammer. If using used parts that arent original to the gun, sometimes its trial and error to get them to work properly due to different machinings and wear patters from gun to gun. Do you have another bolt to try?
 
I will add that from your photo, that bottom of the bolt does not look right. Not enough meat on the bone.
 
daltrey99 said:
I will add that from your photo, that bottom of the bolt does not look right. Not enough meat on the bone.
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I came across a thread where someone had TIG welded extra meat on the hammer do you think this is an acceptable method to get this old girl up and running?
 
Grossekatz said:
My bolt measured at 0.1055. But it's pretty obvious by the pic that you have a problem there. Even the profile looks wrong. It's either very worn or someone removed some material. However It should be easy enough to weld and machine back to spec if you can't find another bolt body.

9TUAAmm.jpeg
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Well shite I may consider the route of TIG welding material in the hammer if other members agree this is a viable route
 
Fix the real problem, which obviously is bolt related, and don't monkey around with the hammer. I may have a spare bolt you can borrow for test purposes and as a template for restoring your bolt profile. PM me.
 
With the trigger held back, push the hammer down until the first hook catches on the disconnector, when the trigger is released the hammer should slip off the disconnector and hook onto the second hook of the hammer, than by pulling the trigger the hammer should fall.
BTW, the tail ends of the hammer spring should slip into the two notches on top of the disconnector or it will not function, it has to be spring loaded.
If the hammer still drops without the trigger being pulled the sear or hammer hooks are worn.

I learned all this by working on my BD44, same issues, sear and hammer hooks worn out, gun would go full auto !.
 
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M1-Garand said:
With the trigger held back, push the hammer down until the first hook catches on the disconnector, when the trigger is released the hammer should slip off the disconnector and hook onto the second hook of the hammer, than by pulling the trigger the hammer should fall.
BTW, the tail ends of the hammer spring should slip into the two notches on top of the disconnector or it will not function, it has to be spring loaded.
If the hammer still drops without the trigger being pulled the sear or hammer hooks are worn.

I learned all this by working on my BD44, same issues, sear and hammer hooks worn out, gun would go full auto !.
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Yes I had replaced the whole sear assembly like others have noted above it looks like bubba also filed in the bottom of the bolt for some reason once someone can get me dimensions of the hump I will have someone weld some material back where it’s supposed to go and shape it to proper form
 
On my AC44 the "hump" measures 27.9 mm---1.0985"
The area in front of the hump measures 25.25 mm----0.9935"
Hope this helps.
Herman
 
Field stripping mine I suddenly remembered that I had the same issue years ago and what I did to repair it.
If you look at the rear of the action where the bolt housing (the half moon shaped part) meets the action, there should be no gap, bolt housing must fit snug against the action or the bolt will not push the hammer down sufficiently.
On mine it turned out that the two holes for the mainspring retainer had worn out and created too much slack, bolt guide housing sat up too high, bolt kept following the hammer.
I repaired this by carefully peening the holes at the lower edges, bolt housing fits snug up against the steel of the action and rifle functions flawless again.
 
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M1-Garand said:
Field stripping mine I suddenly remembered that I had the same issue years ago and what I did to repair it.
If you look at the rear of the action where the bolt housing (the half moon shaped part) meets the action, there should be no gap, bolt housing must fit snug against the action or the bolt will not push the hammer down sufficiently.
On mine it turned out that the two holes for the mainspring retainer had worn out and created too much slack, bolt guide housing sat up too high, bolt kept following the hammer.
I repaired this by carefully peening the holes at the lower edges, bolt housing fits snug up against the steel of the action and rifle functions flawless again.
Click to expand...
While I appreciate the tip I believe the bubba file job on the bolt hump to be the source of my issues I need to find someone who is competent enough to carefully weld and shape it back into correct spec
 
Kaiser715 said:
While I appreciate the tip I believe the bubba file job on the bolt hump to be the source of my issues I need to find someone who is competent enough to carefully weld and shape it back into correct spec
Click to expand...
Are the measurements I gave you of my bolt helpful?
Does your bolt measure different ?
 
M1-Garand said:
In my post #14 I gave you the measurement-------27.9 mm
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Yes thank you but I need the location on the hump of the highest point of you could measure the length of the hump and where the highest point is on that it would be appreciated with the amount of material removed I don’t know if it’s been filed flush in some spots
 
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